Swap Adams Rite MS1850S for Keyless? Yes—Here's How

Swap Adams Rite MS1850S for Keyless? Yes—Here's How

Can I Swap My Adams Rite MS1850S for a Keyless Lock?

Yes — if your door has an Adams Rite MS1850S-style narrow-stile mortise lock, the EASILOK SK1850S(sfic) is built to drop into the same mortise pocket and the original 32mm cylinder hole, with no new drilling, when the footprint matches. Nothing about the door changes: same pocket, same hole, same backset. The only thing that changes is what you touch — a keypad on the outside instead of a keyhole, and the key becomes a backup.

First: Is Yours an MS1850S-Style Lock?

Check these together before assuming the fit:

  • Narrow aluminum stile — the slim vertical frame of a glass storefront door.
  • Mortise lock body set into the edge of the door, with a faceplate visible on the door edge.
  • Cylinder through the door face — the round keyhole on the outside face of the door, Ø1.25" (31.75mm), the standard hole this lock family has used for decades.
  • The bolt: a straight bolt that throws out of the door edge (deadbolt), or a hook-shaped bolt (hookbolt version).

What sends you down a different path: a spring latch with a push paddle or pull handle on the inside means you have a 4510-style deadlatch, not an MS1850S — the keyless path for that lock is the SK4510S(sfic). A lock sitting in the bottom rail of the glass points to the 777 family instead.

What Stays and What Changes

Nothing on the door changes. The mortise pocket, the original 32mm cylinder hole, the strike, the frame, and the pull handle all stay exactly as they are. The door is never drilled, cut, or modified — which matters because most shops are leased, and landlords typically don't allow altering the door.

What changes is only what you touch:

  • Outside: the keyed cylinder comes out of the 32mm hole; the keypad goes in. Daily entry becomes a code — changed free in seconds whenever staff turns over, instead of a $150–$300 rekey visit.
  • Inside: a thumb-turn for exit, as before.
  • The key doesn't disappear — the "(sfic)" is a physical SFIC key that stays as your emergency backup, as required by code. It fits standard 7-pin SFIC cores, so a property running a master-key system can key it into the existing setup. Daily entry is the code; the key is only ever a backup.

Match the Backset Before You Order

The one measurement that decides fit is the backset — and it's the measurement buyers get wrong most often. Measure from the edge of the cylinder to the door edge: 7.5mm means 31/32", 11.5mm means 1-1/8" (the most common, roughly four out of five doors), 20.5mm means 1-1/2". Or measure from the cylinder's center to the door edge: 25mm, 29mm, or 38mm. A wrong backset won't install — so photograph the door edge, the lock face, and the bolt, and confirm with support before ordering.

Choose the swinging DEADBOLT (straight bolt) or the HOOKBOLT (hook-shaped bolt that resists prying on swinging doors), in silver or black, to match your current bolt.

There's another option

Never heard of a keyless storefront lock before? There's another option most shop owners don't know exists: a drill-free keyless retrofit that drops into your MS1850S's original mortise holes — keypad outside, SFIC backup key for emergencies — installed by yourself in minutes, with free code changes after every turnover. That's the EASILOK SK1850S(sfic).

When This Swap Doesn't Apply

  • 4510-style deadlatch doors (spring latch + push paddle inside) take the SK4510S(sfic) path, not this one — the lock bodies are not interchangeable.
  • Non-standard mortise pockets or a cylinder hole that isn't the standard 32mm need a fit check with photos first.
  • Glass bottom-rail locks (the 777 family) are a separate retrofit with their own footprint.

FAQ

Will my landlord approve?
The door itself is never modified — no new holes, no cutting. Most lease concerns are about altering the door, and this swap doesn't.

Do my old keys still work afterward?
No — the keyed cylinder is replaced. The SFIC backup key takes its place for emergencies, and it can be keyed into your existing master-key system.

What if I have the hookbolt version?
Choose the SK1850S(sfic) hookbolt to match — the hook-shaped bolt resists prying on swinging storefront doors. Confirm which bolt you have from the door edge before ordering.

How long does the swap take?
It installs in minutes — the lock drops into the existing pocket and the original 32mm hole. No drilling, no frame work.

Can I keep my master-key system?
Yes. The SFIC core fits standard 7-pin SFIC keyways, so it keys into an existing master-key setup like any other SFIC cylinder.

That's a storefront door lock — and yes, your shop door can go keyless.

That narrow lock in your photo is the standard mortise lock on aluminum glass shop doors. Most owners don't know a keyless, drill-free, DIY version exists: when the existing mortise footprint matches, EASILOK — the only keyless storefront lock built this way — drops into the original holes, so a lost key never again means a $150–$300 locksmith rekey.

Bottom line: if your door has an Adams Rite MS1850S-style mortise lock, the keyless swap changes nothing on the door — same pocket, same 32mm hole, same backset — and EASILOK's SK1850S(sfic) drops into the original holes, installs in minutes, and the key is only ever a backup.

Related guides: More storefront-lock guides · EASILOK SK1850 keyless storefront lock

Keyless vs traditional: quick comparison

EASILOK SK1850 keyless deadlock Traditional keyed lock
Daily entry Keypad code — no key to carry Physical key, every time
Installation DIY in minutes, no drilling Usually needs a professional
Employee turnover Change the code in seconds Rekey or replace the cylinder
Spare key Only ever a backup The only way in — lose it and you're locked out

There's another option

If your door has an Adams Rite-style mortise deadlock, the EASILOK SK1850 keyless keypad lock installs in minutes with no drilling — and the key is only ever a backup.

See the SK1850 →

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