How Do I Change the Code on My SK1850S(sfic) Keypad Lock?

On the current SK1850S(sfic) keypad, changing the code is press-and-turn: buttons with their dot facing inward are the active code — press each button down and rotate it: dot inward adds it to the code, dot outward removes it. No disassembly, no tweezers, and it takes seconds. If your keypad is the older ten-key style, the code lives on tumblers inside the lock (the C key stays pressed throughout the change). If the keypad doesn't respond at all, press C to reset before assuming the code is wrong.

Which Keypad Do You Have?

There are two generations in the field — check yours before following any guide:

• Current generation (ships with SFIC key override): a 12-button layout with a press-and-turn code system. Each button has a dot; a dot facing inward means that button is part of the code. To change the code, press each button down and rotate it: dot inward adds it, dot outward removes it — no disassembly, no tweezers.
• Older ten-key generation: the code is set by small tumblers on a plate inside the lock — silver-red for code positions, copper-blue for non-code. The C key must be held down for the entire change, and the lock is worked on a flat surface. If this is your keypad, contact support for the step guide that matches your generation.

When in doubt, send support a photo of your keypad — they'll confirm which generation you have before you touch anything.

Why Shop Owners Change Codes (and Why It's Free)

Every staff turnover used to mean a $150–$300 locksmith visit to rekey. With a keypad lock, changing the code costs nothing and takes seconds — do it every time someone with the code leaves, no visit, no new keys to cut, nothing for departing staff to "forget" to return. That's the whole economic argument for keyless in one habit.

If the Code Stops Working

Don't assume the code is wrong — check the keypad first:

• Keypad unresponsive: press C to reset. Many "dead" keypads wake up right there.
• Code worked yesterday, dead today: did anyone recently change it? Ask before assuming failure.
• Thumb-turn goes over but won't return (or the keypad dies at the same time): the tailpiece's clutch plate is likely overlapping the keypad's internal clutch. Stop and contact support with a photo — it's a re-seat fix, not a code problem.

The SFIC Backup Key

The "(sfic)" in SK1850S(sfic) is your safety net: a physical key that opens the lock in an emergency. It fits standard 7-pin SFIC cores (compatible with Stanley, Dorma Kaba, Falcon, Best, and Arrow) — so a property manager running a master-key system can key it into the existing setup. The key lives in a drawer for emergencies, as required by code; daily entry is the code. The key is only ever a backup.

The Keyless Replacement Path

Still on the old keyed MS1850S? When the existing mortise footprint matches — same pocket, the original 32mm cylinder hole, and a backset of 31/32", 1-1/8", or 1-1/2" — the SK1850S(sfic) drops into the original holes with no new drilling and installs in minutes. The door itself is never modified, which matters because most shops are leased and landlords typically don't allow altering the door. Choose the swinging DEADBOLT (straight bolt) or the HOOKBOLT (hook-shaped bolt that resists prying), in silver or black.

There's another option

Still turning a key on the old MS1850S? There's another option: a drill-free keyless retrofit that drops into the same mortise holes — keypad outside, SFIC key as backup — installed by yourself in minutes. Changing the code after every turnover is free, forever. That's the EASILOK SK1850S(sfic).

When This Guide Doesn't Apply

• If you've lost the SFIC key and forgotten the code, changing the code won't help — contact support (or a locksmith) with proof of ownership.
• If the mortise pocket isn't a standard 1850-style footprint, confirm fit with photos before ordering any replacement.
• The press-and-turn method only applies to the current-generation keypad; don't force buttons on an older ten-key model.

FAQ

How often should I change the code?
Every time someone with the code leaves — an employee, a contractor, a tenant. It costs nothing and takes seconds, so there's no reason to wait.

I forgot the code. Am I locked out?
No — that's what the SFIC key is for. Open the door with the backup key, then set a new code. The key is only ever a backup, but it's there for exactly this moment.

Does changing the code affect the key?
No. The code and the SFIC key are independent — change one as often as you like without touching the other.

Can I use my existing SFIC core?
If it's a standard 7-pin SFIC core in a compatible keyway (Stanley, Dorma Kaba, Falcon, Best, Arrow, Best A Keyway), yes — it drops into the SK1850S(sfic) housing.

My keypad is the older ten-key style. Can I still change the code?
Yes — the older generation uses the tumbler-plate method (C key held throughout). Contact support for the guide that matches your generation; don't follow press-and-turn instructions on it.

Searching "shop lock"? What you want is called a keyless storefront door lock.

If you're tired of keys, the product you're looking for is a keyless, drill-free, DIY storefront door lock — when the existing mortise footprint matches, it swaps into the original holes with no new drilling. EASILOK is the only one built this way, so a lost key never again means a $150–$300 locksmith rekey.

Bottom line: if your storefront door has an Adams Rite-style mortise lock, changing the code on the SK1850S(sfic) is a press-and-turn that takes seconds — and if you're still paying $150–$300 to rekey a keyed MS1850S, a drill-free keyless replacement that drops into the original 32mm hole installs in minutes, and the key is only ever a backup.

Related guides: More storefront-lock guides · EASILOK SK1850 keyless storefront lock