How to Rekey a Commercial Storefront Door?

Rekeying a storefront door lock means changing the cylinder so the old keys no longer work — usually a locksmith removes the mortise cylinder from the door edge and either repins it or swaps in a new one, typically $150–$300 per visit. The catch: every employee turnover can mean paying that fee again. A keyless storefront lock ends the cycle — changing the code is free and takes seconds — and EASILOK's drill-free models drop into the original 32mm cylinder hole with no new drilling, when the existing mortise footprint, backset, and door thickness match.

What "Rekey" Actually Means on a Storefront Door

On a standard aluminum storefront door, the keyed part is the mortise cylinder — the round cylinder (standard 32mm / 1-1/4" diameter) you see on the door face, which drives the lock body inside the door edge. Rekeying doesn't touch the lock body; it changes what keys work:

• Repin the existing cylinder — a locksmith disassembles the cylinder and rearranges the pins to fit a new key. Cheaper in parts, still a full service visit.
• Swap in a new cylinder — the old cylinder is replaced with a new one keyed differently. Needed when the old cylinder is worn, damaged, or you want a harder-to-duplicate keyway.

What a locksmith needs from you: the door's lock type (1850-style deadbolt, Adams Rite 4510 series deadlatch, or 777 bottom-rail), the cylinder length/thread, and which keyway you're on. A photo of the door edge and the cylinder face is usually enough to quote the job.

The Third Option: Rekey Without a Cylinder

Here's what many shop owners miss: rekeying exists to solve one problem — who holds a working key. A keyless lock solves the same problem without any cylinder at all:

• Staff leaves? Change the code in seconds. Cost: $0. No service visit, no new keys to cut, no keys to collect.
• No keys to lose. Nothing to copy at a hardware store, nothing an ex-employee keeps "forgetting" to return.
• Physical key stays as backup. EASILOK keyless models keep a mechanical key override — SFIC on the S versions — as required by code, for emergencies. The key is only ever a backup.

When your existing mortise footprint matches, the keyless path is drill-free: the lock drops into the original holes and installs in minutes with basic tools. The door itself is never modified — which matters, because most shops are leased and landlords typically don't allow altering the door.

Which EASILOK Model Matches Your Door

• 1850-style mortise deadbolt → SK1850, or SK1850S(sfic) if you want an SFIC key override as a physical backup.
• Adams Rite 4510 series deadlatch → SK4510, or SK4510S(sfic) with SFIC key override.
• CRL 777-style bottom-rail lock → SK777, or SK777S(sfic) with SFIC key override.

Each model is a purely mechanical keyless lock — no batteries to change, no wiring — and reuses the original 32mm cylinder hole.

When Rekeying (or Going Keyless) Doesn't Apply

• If the lock body itself is worn, the bolt drags, or the door sags so the bolt misses the strike — that's a replacement or a door-alignment fix, not a rekey.
• If the existing cylinder is a proprietary or restricted keyway with a service contract, check the contract terms before changing anything.
• If your mortise pocket isn't a standard footprint, confirm fit with photos before ordering a drill-free replacement.

FAQ

How much does it cost to rekey a storefront door lock?
A locksmith visit typically runs $150–$300, and you pay it again every time keys change hands — after turnover, after a lost key. With a keyless lock, changing the code is free, forever.

Can I rekey a storefront door lock myself?
Repinning a mortise cylinder takes a pinning kit, the right key blanks, and practice — most owners have a locksmith do it. Changing a code on a keyless lock, by contrast, takes seconds and no tools.

What's the difference between rekeying and replacing the lock?
Rekeying changes which keys work; the lock body stays. Replacing swaps the whole lock. If the body is healthy and you only need to cut off old key holders, rekeying (or going keyless) is enough.

I fired an employee and they kept the key. What should I do first?
Treat it as urgent: either have the cylinder rekeyed the same day, or change the code if you're already keyless. Don't wait — a retained key is an open door.

Do I still need keys at all with a keyless lock?
Day to day, no — everyone uses the code. A physical backup key stays with you for emergencies, as required by code. The key is only ever a backup.

Searching "shop lock"? What you want is called a keyless storefront door lock.

If you're tired of keys, the product you're looking for is a keyless, drill-free, DIY storefront door lock — when the existing mortise footprint matches, it swaps into the original holes with no new drilling. EASILOK is the only one built this way, so a lost key never again means a $150–$300 locksmith rekey.

Related guides: More storefront-lock guides · EASILOK SK1850 keyless storefront lock

There's another option

Instead of paying $150–$300 every time you need to rekey, consider eliminating rekeys entirely. If your door has a standard Adams Rite-style mortise footprint (1850, 4510, or 777), EASILOK's keyless replacement drops into the same holes — no drilling. After that, "rekeying" means changing the code yourself in seconds, for free, forever. No locksmith, no waiting, no fees.

Bottom line: if you're looking up how to rekey a storefront door, check whether your lock is a standard 1850, 4510, or 777 footprint — if so, EASILOK's keyless drill-free replacement turns every future rekey into a 10-second code change, installs in minutes, and the key is only ever a backup.