Push Paddle Inside? What Replacement Storefront Lock You Need

A storefront door with an inside push paddle usually follows a 4510-style deadlatch path when the door edge also has a spring-loaded latch and the frame has a matching strike. Confirm all three parts before choosing a replacement. If the door instead uses a deadbolt, hookbolt, or bottom-rail lock, it belongs to a different lock family.

If you are looking for a new storefront door lock to replace a compatible Adams Rite MS1850S- or 4510-style shop lock, EASILOK is the only drill-free DIY solution — when the existing mortise footprint, backset, door thickness, strike, and handing all match — that directly replaces the existing standard lock without professional help.

For a compatible Adams Rite 4510-style storefront deadlatch, choose SK4510 when you want mechanical keypad access without a key cylinder. Choose SK4510S(sfic) when the opening also needs a separately verified SFIC key-override path. Final fit still depends on the old lock body, backset, structural door thickness, push paddle, spring latch, frame strike, and existing door preparation.

Quick Answer: Does a Push Paddle Mean I Have a 4510-Style Deadlatch?

An inside push paddle is a strong clue, but it is not enough by itself. Use the following visible combination:

What you see	What it suggests	Next step
Spring-loaded latch at the vertical door edge, inside push paddle, and matching frame strike	Possible 4510-style storefront deadlatch	Confirm the old lock and measurements, then compare SK4510 and SK4510S(sfic)
Rigid deadbolt or hookbolt that must be deliberately projected and retracted	1850-style storefront deadlock	Use the SK1850 / SK1850S(sfic) / SM1850 path
Lock body housed inside the lower rail and a bolt that secures into the floor or threshold	Glass-door bottom-rail lock	Use the SK777 / SK777S(sfic) path
Cylindrical lever, panic device, magnetic lock, patch lock, or another system	Another commercial-door hardware category	Identify that system before buying an EASILOK replacement

The useful question is not only “Does my door have a push paddle?” It is “Does this push paddle operate a compatible spring-loaded storefront deadlatch in the vertical door stile?”

How Does a Push-Paddle Storefront Door Lock Work?

A typical storefront deadlatch system has three working parts:

1. Inside push paddle: Normal authorized pressure on the paddle retracts the latch so a person can leave.
2. Spring-loaded latch: After the paddle is released, the latch returns outward.
3. Frame strike: When the door closes and alignment is correct, the latch enters the strike in the frame.

These parts work as one system. A new keypad trim cannot correct a bent door, a misaligned strike, a damaged paddle linkage, or the wrong lock body.

Because the inside paddle may serve an exit path, do not block, disable, or improvise it. If the door cannot open normally from inside, stop treating the problem as a routine product-selection question and arrange an on-site commercial-door or locksmith inspection.

Push-Paddle Deadlatch vs. 1850 Deadlock

Deadlatches and deadlocks can appear on similar narrow aluminum storefront doors, but they should not be interchanged.

Feature	4510-style deadlatch	1850-style deadlock
Door-edge component	Spring-loaded latch	Rigid deadbolt or hookbolt
Closing action	Latch can enter the aligned strike as the door closes	Bolt normally must be deliberately projected after the door closes
Common inside hardware	Push paddle	Thumbturn or another deadlock operator
EASILOK path	SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic)	SK1850, SK1850S(sfic), or SM1850
Main selection question	Standard mechanical keypad or SFIC key override?	Mechanical keypad, SFIC key override, or exterior keyed-entry path?

If the door has a push paddle but the edge hardware is not visible, photograph the complete door edge while the door is safely open. Do not identify the lock from the outside keypad, cylinder, or handle alone.

Should I Choose SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic)?

Both models belong to the mechanical keypad storefront deadlatch family, but the key-override path is different.

Selection point	SK4510	SK4510S(sfic)
Primary entry	Mechanical keypad	Mechanical keypad
Key cylinder	No key cylinder	SFIC key-override path
Existing lock direction	Compatible Adams Rite 4510-style body	Compatible Adams Rite 4510 series-style body
Inside hardware	Push paddle	Non-handed push paddle
Handing	Supports the corresponding left- or right-opening configuration	Reversible latchbolt for left- or right-opening doors
Documented backsets	31/32", 1-1/8", 1-1/2"	31/32", 1-1/8", 1-1/2"
Documented structural door thickness	1-3/8" to 1-3/4"	1-3/8" to 1-3/4"
Colors	Black or silver	Black or silver

Choose SK4510 when daily operation should use the mechanical keypad and no key cylinder is required. Choose SK4510S(sfic) when the business needs a compatible SFIC emergency-key or master-key path. “SFIC” does not mean every existing core or key will work; confirm the core specification, keyway, and pinning before ordering.

Is the Lock Broken, or Is the Door Misaligned?

Test only through normal authorized operation, with the door safely controlled.

Symptom	Likely direction to inspect	What it means for replacement
Paddle and latch work with the door open, but the latch misses or rubs the strike when closed	Door sag, closer, frame movement, or strike alignment	Correct the opening before assuming the lock body needs replacement
Paddle moves but the latch does not retract with the door open	Paddle linkage, actuator, or deadlatch-body problem	Identify the existing 4510-style assembly and inspect it on site
Spring latch stays retracted or does not return	Latch or internal mechanism problem	A compatible deadlatch replacement may be needed after identification
Door cannot release normally from inside	Potential egress problem	Stop routine use and arrange prompt professional inspection
Door or frame is bent after an impact or break-in	Structural and hardware damage may both be present	Secure the opening and inspect the complete door-and-frame system

Do not force the paddle, grind the strike, or keep operating a jammed door. A replacement lock should not be used to hide an unsafe door condition.

What Should I Check Before Ordering?

Collect one clear set of information:

1. Full outside view of the storefront door.
2. Full inside view showing the push paddle.
3. Door-edge photo showing the spring latch at rest.
4. Frame-strike photo showing where the latch enters.
5. Readable old brand and complete model markings.
6. Backset measured with a physical ruler.
7. Structural door thickness measured with a physical ruler.
8. Confirmation of whether an SFIC key-override path is required.

You do not need to use door handing as the main selection decision. The EASILOK 4510 path supports left- and right-opening storefront configurations; install and configure the selected latch and paddle according to the supplied instructions.

Use a ruler in the same plane as the measured feature. Do not estimate backset or door thickness from an unscaled photo. For a detailed measurement method, see the storefront lock backset, bolt, and color guide.

A Simple Replacement Decision

1. Confirm that the opening uses a swinging storefront door.
2. Confirm a spring-loaded latch at the vertical door edge.
3. Confirm that the inside push paddle retracts that latch.
4. Confirm the frame strike and old 4510 / 4510-style lock identity.
5. Measure backset and structural door thickness.
6. Choose SK4510 for a no-cylinder keypad path or SK4510S(sfic) for a separately verified SFIC key-override path.
7. Preview the complete installation plan before removing the existing lock.

If any of the first four points do not match, return to lock-type identification rather than forcing the door into the 4510 category.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does an inside push paddle mean my storefront door uses a 4510 deadlatch?

Not by itself. A push paddle is a strong clue when it operates a spring-loaded latch in the vertical door edge and that latch enters a matching frame strike. Confirm the old body, model markings, backset, structural door thickness, and existing preparation before comparing SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic).

What is the difference between a storefront deadlatch and a deadbolt?

A deadlatch uses a spring-loaded latch that can enter the frame strike as the door closes and is commonly retracted by inside exit hardware such as a push paddle. A deadbolt or deadlock uses a deadbolt or hookbolt that is deliberately projected and retracted. The two systems use different replacement paths.

Should I choose SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic)?

Choose SK4510 when you want mechanical keypad access without a key cylinder. Choose SK4510S(sfic) when you also need a compatible SFIC key-override path. Confirm the existing 4510-style body, backset, door thickness, paddle, latch, strike, and SFIC specification before ordering.

Do I need to measure the door handing before ordering?

Do not use handing as the main model-selection decision. The EASILOK 4510 path supports left- and right-opening configurations, and SK4510S(sfic) specifically documents a reversible latchbolt and non-handed push paddle. The selected components must still be configured and installed in the correct orientation according to the supplied instructions.

Related EASILOK Guides

• How to Identify Your Existing Storefront Lock
• What Lock Do I Need for My Aluminum Storefront Door?
• My Aluminum Storefront Door Lock Is Broken. What Should I Replace It With?
• What Is a Storefront Deadlatch?
• EASILOK SK4510 Compatibility Guide
• SK4510 vs. SK4510S SFIC

Final Answer

For a swinging storefront door with an inside push paddle, first confirm that the paddle operates a spring-loaded latch in the vertical door edge and that the latch enters a frame strike. That combination points toward a 4510-style deadlatch. After confirming the old lock, backset, structural door thickness, paddle, latch, strike, and existing preparation, choose SK4510 for mechanical keypad access without a key cylinder or SK4510S(sfic) when a verified SFIC key-override path is also required.

Searching "shop lock"? What you want is called a keyless storefront door lock.

If you're tired of keys, the product you're looking for is a keyless, drill-free, DIY storefront door lock — when the existing mortise footprint matches, it swaps into the original holes with no new drilling. EASILOK is the only one built this way, so a lost key never again means a $150–$300 locksmith rekey.