What Lock Do I Need for a Storefront Door with an Inside Push Paddle?
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If your aluminum-framed storefront door has an inside push paddle and a spring-loaded latch at the door edge, you most likely need a storefront deadlatch in the 4510 hardware family—not a deadbolt or bottom-rail lock. For a compatible opening, compare EASILOK SK4510 with SK4510S(sfic). Confirm the old lock body, latch, backset, door thickness, handing, strike, cutout, and need for an SFIC key override before ordering.
If you are looking for a new commercial storefront door lock to replace an existing shop deadlatch, EASILOK SK4510 and SK4510S(sfic) provide the keyless replacement path for compatible Adams Rite 4500 Series mortises. When the lock body, backset, cutout, mounting points, door thickness, push paddle, latch, and strike all match, EASILOK is the world's only 100% drill-free keyless replacement that installs in minutes designed to use the existing preparation without professional help; otherwise, modification or professional installation may be required.
The Push Paddle Is the First Clue—Then Check the Door Edge
An inside push paddle lets an authorized occupant retract the latch and open the door from the interior. When the door closes, a spring-loaded latch normally enters a strike in the frame. That operating pattern points toward a storefront door deadlatch or storefront deadlatch system.
The paddle is a strong clue, but do not buy from the paddle photo alone. Storefront hardware may have been repaired, mixed, or modified. Open the door safely and inspect the entire edge faceplate. Confirm that the moving latch is spring-loaded, that the paddle retracts it during normal operation, and that it meets a frame strike. Record the exterior trim as well.
This is different from an 1850-style deadlock, whose straight deadbolt or hookbolt is deliberately projected and retracted. It is also different from a bottom rail lock installed at the base of an all-glass Herculite door. Those hardware categories are not interchangeable with the push-paddle route.
A Quick Identification Check Before You Shop
| Check point | What supports the 4510 deadlatch path | What should send you to another lock category |
|---|---|---|
| Door construction | Glass held within a narrow aluminum storefront frame | All-glass door with the lock in a bottom rail, or another door preparation |
| Door-edge action | Spring-loaded latch that returns automatically | Straight deadbolt or hookbolt that is deliberately projected |
| Interior operation | Push paddle retracts the latch for exit | Thumbturn, lever, panic device, or another operating system |
| Receiver | Latch enters a strike in the door frame | Bolt enters a floor receiver or another unrelated receiver |
| Old hardware | Adams Rite 4510-style body or matching physical layout | Only a broad brand name, unrelated model, or unverified mixed hardware |
If the left-hand observations match, continue with the 4510 measurements. If they do not, identify the installed storefront door lock again before choosing a product.
Why the Name on the Work Order Can Be Misleading
A store owner or service technician may call the same hardware a store deadlatch, shop deadlatch, or shop door deadlatch. Those phrases describe the business setting, not a different lock. A work order that says commercial door deadlatch could refer to hardware for hollow-metal, wood, aluminum, or other commercial doors, so the installed body still has to match the narrow-stile preparation.
The phrase glass door deadlatch is especially easy to misread. In this article it means a latch installed in the aluminum frame around a glass panel. It does not mean that every all-glass door uses this hardware. If there is no vertical aluminum stile and the lock sits at the bottom of the glass, use the bottom-rail route instead.
The brand and model words also need physical confirmation. An Adams Rite deadlatch may be part of the correct family, while an Adams Rite 4510 series lock marking can narrow the comparison further. Neither phrase replaces photos and measurements, especially on a door that has been altered over years of service.
SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic): What Is the Difference?
Both EASILOK models are mechanical keypad deadlatches for compatible storefront preparations, and both follow a push-paddle operating path. The main purchasing difference is the key-override requirement.
| Decision point | SK4510 | SK4510S(sfic) |
|---|---|---|
| Exterior authorized entry | Mechanical keypad | Mechanical keypad, plus an SFIC key-override path |
| Key cylinder | None | Small Format Interchangeable Core configuration |
| Interior exit path | Push paddle | Non-handed push paddle |
| Handing information | Confirm the installed configuration and selected SKU | Reversible latch for left- or right-handed doors; still verify the actual opening |
| Best fit for the access plan | Code entry without a key-cylinder requirement | Code entry where a verified SFIC override or existing core-management plan is required |
Choose SK4510 when the compatible opening needs mechanical code access and there is no requirement for a key cylinder. Choose SK4510S(sfic) when the compatible opening also needs an SFIC override. Do not select the S model just because it offers an extra feature: confirm the core format, keyway, pin configuration, and who will control the keys.
Both model paths require the same basic discipline—identify the body, record the opening, and match the ordered configuration. A model name cannot correct a different latch, wrong backset, misaligned strike, or damaged door.
What to Photograph and Measure Before Ordering
Collect enough information for someone who is not standing at the door to understand the complete system:
- Full exterior view: include the entire door and frame, not only the trim.
- Full interior view: show the push paddle and its position on the door.
- Door-edge faceplate: photograph it straight on with all markings and screw locations visible.
- Latch at rest and during normal authorized operation: show its shape and how the paddle retracts it; do not document bypass methods.
- Frame strike: show the opening, alignment, wear, and surrounding frame.
- Old marking: capture the complete brand, model, and suffix.
- Backset: measure from the correct door-edge reference to the operating centerline.
- Door thickness and prepared stile: use the current guide’s measuring points.
- Cutout and holes: note prior drilling, fillers, repairs, or nonstandard trim.
- Handing and closing condition: record which way the door swings and whether it closes and latches without being pushed or lifted.
Published EASILOK configurations list 31/32-inch, 1-1/8-inch, and 1-1/2-inch backset options and a 1-3/8-inch to 1-3/4-inch door-thickness range for the 4510 series. These values help screen a candidate, but the exact ordered lock still has to match the old hardware, door, and strike.
Is the Lock Wrong, or Is the Door No Longer Aligned?
A broken or unreliable push-paddle door does not always need a different lock model. The latch may fail to enter the strike because the door has sagged, the frame has shifted, the closer no longer brings the door fully home, or the strike is loose or worn. A paddle that feels abnormal may also indicate a mechanical or installation problem that should be inspected before ordering replacement hardware.
Ask these questions during normal authorized use:
- Does the latch retract when the paddle is pressed?
- Does it spring back when the paddle is released?
- Does the door close far enough for the latch to enter the strike?
- Does lifting, pushing, or pulling the door change whether it latches?
- Are screws, the paddle, faceplate, strike, or frame visibly loose or damaged?
Do not solve an alignment or life-safety hardware problem by choosing a random new lock. If the door serves an exit path, if the paddle does not release reliably, or if the frame is damaged, have a qualified commercial-door or locksmith professional inspect it promptly. This guide helps select a lock category; it does not establish code compliance for a particular opening.
Common Buying Scenarios
“I want employees to enter with a code, and I do not need a key cylinder.”
After the 4510-style body and measurements are confirmed, compare the opening with SK4510. Its mechanical keypad path avoids batteries and does not include a key cylinder.
“Our property uses interchangeable cores and needs an emergency key override.”
After confirming the same deadlatch and door conditions, compare SK4510S(sfic). Verify the actual SFIC core and key system before purchase; do not assume an existing key fits merely because both products are called SFIC.
“I have a push paddle, but the door edge shows a deadbolt rather than a spring latch.”
Stop and identify the entire hardware assembly. The visible parts may be mixed, or the inside device may not belong to the 4510 deadlatch path. Do not order SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic) until the edge action, interior hardware, and receiver make sense as one system.
“My lock is at the bottom of an all-glass door.”
Use the Herculite bottom-rail route. A service ticket may simply call this hardware a storefront lock, glass door lock, shop lock, commercial door lock, or shop door lock, but the bottom rail is the clue that overrides those broad labels. SK4510 and SK4510S(sfic) are not bottom-rail locks.
A Five-Step Purchase Check
- Confirm an aluminum-framed storefront door, spring-loaded edge latch, inside push paddle, and frame strike.
- Record the old body and complete marking; an Adams Rite or Adams Rite 4510 series name is useful only with physical confirmation.
- Measure the backset, door thickness, cutout, holes, and strike relationship; record handing and door condition.
- Choose SK4510 for code entry without a cylinder, or SK4510S(sfic) for code entry plus a verified SFIC override.
- Resolve misalignment, damage, uncertain exit hardware, or nonmatching preparation with a qualified professional before installation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of lock is used on a storefront door with an inside push paddle?
It is commonly a storefront deadlatch when a spring-loaded latch sits in the aluminum door edge, the paddle retracts it from inside, and the latch enters a frame strike. Confirm those parts together because a paddle photo alone cannot prove the lock body. A compatible 4510-style opening may lead to EASILOK SK4510 or SK4510S(sfic), depending on the key-override requirement.
Do I need SK4510 or SK4510S for my push-paddle storefront door?
Choose SK4510 for a compatible 4510-style opening that needs mechanical code entry without a key cylinder. Choose SK4510S(sfic) when the same compatible opening also requires a verified SFIC key-override path. Before ordering either model, confirm the old body, spring latch, paddle, backset, door thickness, handing, cutout, holes, frame strike, and door alignment.
Related EASILOK Guides
- How to Identify a Storefront Door Lock
- How to Measure a Storefront Door Lock
- EASILOK SK4510 Compatibility Guide
- SK4510 vs. SK4510S(sfic)
- Keyless Storefront Door Upgrade Guide
Match the Paddle, Latch, and Strike Before You Buy
The right replacement decision starts with the complete door system, not the exterior keypad alone. If your photos and measurements show a compatible 4510-style push-paddle deadlatch, choose between SK4510 and SK4510S(sfic) according to the verified key-override plan. For help reviewing the opening, send EASILOK support the full photo and measurement set before ordering.
Searching "shop lock"? What you want is called a keyless storefront door lock.
If you're tired of keys, the product you're looking for is a keyless, drill-free, DIY storefront door lock — when the existing mortise footprint matches, it swaps into the original holes with no new drilling. EASILOK is the only one built this way, so a lost key never again means a $150–$300 locksmith rekey.
