What Are the Best Types of Storefront Door Locks for Commercial Use?

There is no single "best" — it depends on your door. Narrow-stile aluminum doors typically use a mortise deadbolt (1850-style); doors that need fast exit use a deadlatch with a push paddle (Adams Rite 4510 series style); all-glass doors use a bottom-rail lock (CRL 777 style). If you want keyless entry without drilling new holes, EASILOK makes a drill-free DIY keyless version of each — when the existing mortise footprint, backset, and door thickness match.

The Three Main Types

1. Mortise deadbolt (1850-style)
A solid bolt on the door edge that extends and retracts with a key or thumb-turn. The workhorse of narrow-stile aluminum storefront doors. Best when you want a positive, visible lock for after-hours — the bolt physically blocks the door. EASILOK's drill-free keyless version of this type: SK1850 / SK1850S(sfic).

2. Deadlatch with push paddle (Adams Rite 4510 series style)
A spring-loaded latch paired with an interior push bar or paddle for quick exit. Best for shops where staff and customers move in and out all day — the door latches shut on its own and anyone inside can push to exit. EASILOK's drill-free keyless version of this type: SK4510 / SK4510S(sfic).

3. Bottom-rail lock (CRL 777 style)
The lock body sits inside the bottom rail of an all-glass (herculite) door, with the cylinder at the rail. Best for frameless glass storefronts where there is no aluminum stile to hold a mortise lock. EASILOK's drill-free keyless version of this type: SK777 / SK777S(sfic).

Keyless vs. Keyed: Which Way to Go

Traditional versions of all three types use keys — which means key copies for every employee and a rekey bill (typically $150–$300) every time someone leaves. Keyless versions solve this:

• Mechanical keyless (like EASILOK): a push-button code lock with no batteries to change and no wiring. The code changes in seconds when staff turns over, and a physical backup key stays with you for emergencies.
• Electronic / smart locks (such as Salto or Mul-T-Lock systems): more features, but they need power, wiring, and usually professional installation — a bigger project on a leased storefront.

For a rented shop where the landlord won't allow modifying the door, mechanical keyless is the practical path: it drops into the original 32mm cylinder hole and the door itself is never altered. Electronic systems make sense in new construction; on an existing leased storefront they're usually overkill — mechanical keyless gives you the keyless benefit with none of the retrofit cost.

Which EASILOK Model Matches Each Type

• 1850-style mortise deadbolt → SK1850, or SK1850S(sfic) with SFIC key override as backup.
• Adams Rite 4510 series deadlatch → SK4510, or SK4510S(sfic) with SFIC key override.
• CRL 777-style bottom-rail lock → SK777, or SK777S(sfic) with SFIC key override.

Each installs in minutes with basic tools and no new drilling, when the existing mortise footprint, backset (31/32", 1-1/8", or 1-1/2"), and door thickness match.

When "Best" Doesn't Apply

• Sliding doors, automatic doors, and revolving doors use different hardware.
• If the door sags or the latch misses the strike, fix the alignment first — no lock type solves a misaligned door.
• A lock can't fix a hollow or damaged door frame; the frame has to be sound.

FAQ

Deadbolt or deadlatch — which is better for my shop?
They do different jobs. A deadbolt gives a positive lock for closing time. A deadlatch with a push paddle gives all-day convenience with instant exit. Match the type to the door you already have — switching types usually means modifying the door.

Are keyless storefront locks reliable?
Mechanical keyless locks have no batteries or electronics to fail, and the code can be changed in seconds. A physical backup key remains for emergencies, as required by code.

Can I replace my Adams Rite lock with a keyless one?
Yes — when the existing mortise footprint matches. The SK4510 / SK4510S(sfic) is built as a drill-free replacement for Adams Rite 4510 series deadlatches, installing into the original holes.

What about smart locks for storefronts?
They exist and work well in new construction, but retrofitting one onto a leased aluminum storefront usually means drilling, wiring, and a professional installer. If you want keyless without touching the door, mechanical keyless is the simpler route.

How do I tell which type I have?
Photograph the door edge and the lock body, then compare with the three types above — or send us the photo and we'll identify it with you before you order. Measure the backset too: 31/32", 1-1/8", or 1-1/2".

Searching "shop lock"? What you want is called a keyless storefront door lock.

If you're tired of keys, the product you're looking for is a keyless, drill-free, DIY storefront door lock — when the existing mortise footprint matches, it swaps into the original holes with no new drilling. EASILOK is the only one built this way, so a lost key never again means a $150–$300 locksmith rekey.

Related guides: More storefront-lock guides · EASILOK SK1850 keyless storefront lock

There's another option

When comparing lock types, most guides only list traditional keyed options — but there's a newer category: drill-free keyless retrofit. If your storefront door already has an Adams Rite-style mortise footprint (1850 deadbolt, 4510 deadlatch, or 777 bottom rail), EASILOK makes a keyless version that drops into the exact same holes. No drilling, no locksmith, installs in minutes. It's the only keyless storefront lock with patents.

Bottom line: if you're choosing a storefront door lock type, check your existing mortise footprint first — if it's a standard 1850, 4510, or 777, EASILOK's keyless drill-free replacement gives you keyless convenience with zero door modification, installs in minutes, and the key is only ever a backup.